Cedar Tree Plants: Year-Round Privacy Screen With Minimal Care

Planting cedar trees means getting a fragrant, evergreen privacy screen that thrives with almost no fuss. 🌿 I’ve watched my Eastern Red Cedar grow from a sapling to a 12-foot-tall hedge in just five years—with almost no watering, no fertilizer, and minimal pruning.

The key is choosing the right spot and variety for your climate, then letting nature do the rest.

The best cedar trees for privacy screens are Eastern Red Cedar (great for zones 2-9) or Deodar Cedar (ideal for zones 7-10). They handle poor soil, drought, and even urban pollution better than most shrubs.

You’ll need full sun to partial shade, well-draining soil, and enough space—these trees spread wider than they grow tall. Once established, they’re nearly indestructible.

By planting in early spring or fall, you’ll see steady growth of 12-24 inches per year. The dense foliage blocks noise and wind while keeping your yard looking lush year-round.

Just avoid overwatering—they hate soggy roots—and prune lightly in late winter to shape them. No other plant gives this much return for so little effort.

Perfect for fences, property lines, or windbreaks, cedars also attract birds and repel deer. If you’re in a hot, dry climate, Deodar Cedar’s silvery-blue needles add extra texture. For colder areas, Eastern Red Cedar’s deep green stays vibrant even in winter. Let’s get yours growing!

What you need

How to plant cedar trees for a low-maintenance privacy screen

Here's the straightforward approach I use to create a lush, wind-resistant screen that thrives with almost no fuss.

For year-round privacy, I recommend Eastern Red Cedar or Thuja Green Giant—both grow densely and handle cold winters beautifully. Eastern Red Cedar thrives in full sun to partial shade, while Green Giant prefers full sun but tolerates light shade. Test your site's moisture—cedars hate soggy roots, so avoid low spots where water pools.

Measure your space: cedars need 6-12 feet apart for mature spacing, depending on the variety. I like planting them in staggered rows to create a natural, full look from day one. Use a tape measure to mark planting spots before digging—this prevents uneven spacing that shows up later.

Dig holes twice as wide as the root ball but only as deep—cedars don't like being buried too deep, which can strangle the trunk. I use the backfill method: remove the plant from its container, loosen the roots gently, and place it in the hole so the top of the root ball sits level with the ground. Never mound soil around the trunk later—this causes rot.

Mix the native soil with compost (about 1 part compost to 3 parts soil) in the hole. Cedar trees aren’t fussy about soil, but this boosts early root growth. Tap the soil lightly around the roots to remove air pockets, then water deeply to settle everything. You’ll know it’s right when the soil looks evenly moist but not muddy.

Fill the hole with the amended soil mix, pressing down gently in 2-inch layers to eliminate gaps. Avoid compacting too hard—cedars need loose soil to spread roots easily. Once planted, create a 2-inch deep watering basin around the base and add 5 gallons of water per tree. This ensures moisture reaches deep roots right away.

After watering, check the soil 1 inch below the surface—it should feel damp but not soggy. Mulch with 3 inches of wood chips, keeping the mulch 6 inches away from the trunk to prevent rot. Water once a week for the first month, then taper to every 2 weeks once leaves appear—cedars are drought-tolerant once established but need consistent moisture to take root.

Skip pruning the first year—let the tree focus on root and foliage growth. In early spring, remove any dead, broken, or crossing branches with clean cuts just outside the branch collar. I use bypass pruners for small branches and loppers for thicker stems. Never prune more than 25% of the foliage in a single season—cedars recover slowly from heavy cuts.

Fertilize only if your soil is very poor: apply a slow-release, balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) in early spring and again in mid-summer. Over-fertilizing causes weak growth and attracts pests. Watch for bagworms or spider mites—spray with neem oil if you see webbing or yellowing leaves. A healthy cedar should grow 12-24 inches per year with minimal intervention.

After 3-5 years, your cedars will form a solid privacy screen. To fill gaps or extend the screen, plant new trees in late fall or early spring when roots are dormant. Space them 3-4 feet apart in the gaps—cedars grow densely over time, so you won’t need to thin them later.

Check soil moisture once a month during dry spells—mature cedars need water only when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry. Avoid heavy pruning after mid-summer, as new growth won’t harden off before winter. With this approach, your screen will stay dense, green, and wind-resistant for decades with almost no work.

Tips & tricks for perfect cedar tree planting

A few simple tricks will help your cedar privacy screen grow thick and healthy with minimal effort. These are the lessons I learned after planting cedars in my own yard—some the hard way!

Variety Matters: Eastern Red Cedar handles partial shade beautifully, while Thuja Green Giant thrives in full sun. If your site gets less than 4 hours of direct sunlight, go with Eastern Red Cedar—it won't get leggy like Green Giant might. I planted both varieties side by side once, and the Green Giant struggled in the shadier spots while the Eastern Red Cedar stayed lush.

Spacing is Critical: Those 6-12 feet measurements in Step 1 aren't just suggestions—they're based on mature tree width. For a solid screen, I recommend planting Green Giant at the closer end (6 feet) and Eastern Red Cedar at 10-12 feet apart. This creates a natural density gradient that fills in beautifully over time. Mark your spots with stakes before digging to avoid crooked rows.

Soil Prep Secrets: The 1:3 compost-to-soil ratio in Step 2 isn't just about nutrition—it's about creating the perfect air-to-moisture balance for roots. I like adding a handful of mycorrhizal fungi powder to the mix too (optional but helpful). This microscopic helper boosts root growth by 30% in the first year. Just sprinkle it around the roots before backfilling.

Watering Wisdom: That 5-gallon initial watering in Step 3 might seem like a lot, but it's crucial for breaking through the root ball's natural resistance. I use a slow watering can to avoid runoff, letting the water soak in completely. After the first month, I switch to a soaker hose set on low for 10 minutes every two weeks—this keeps moisture consistent without oversaturating.

Frequently asked questions

When is the best time to plant cedar trees for a privacy screen?

The ideal time to plant cedar trees is in early spring (after the last frost) or fall (6-8 weeks before the first frost). This gives roots time to establish before extreme heat or cold. Avoid planting in summer—cedars dislike transplant shock in hot, dry conditions. Pro tip: If planting in fall, water deeply before the ground freezes to protect young roots.

How far apart should I space cedar trees for a solid privacy screen?

Spacing depends on the cedar variety and your desired height. For Western Red Cedar (a popular choice), plant trees 4–6 feet apart for a dense screen in 5–10 years. If you want faster coverage, reduce spacing to 3–4 feet. Eastern White Cedar (smaller) can be planted 3–5 feet apart. Always check the mature width of your specific variety!